Preserving Excellence: Essential Care and Maintenance for Luxury Timepieces
A luxury timepiece is an investment in craftsmanship and heritage. Learn the essential practices for maintaining and preserving your collection for generations to come.
The Responsibility of Ownership
Owning a luxury timepiece is both a privilege and a responsibility. These mechanical marvels represent generations of horological expertise, and proper care ensures they continue to function beautifully for decades—even centuries—to come. At The Tempus Order, we believe that understanding proper maintenance is essential for any serious collector.
A well-maintained timepiece not only retains its value but often appreciates, as collectors recognize the importance of preservation. More importantly, proper care honors the craftsmanship that went into creating these mechanical works of art. Whether you’ve just acquired your first significant piece or you’re managing an established collection, these principles will help you preserve your timepieces for future generations.
Daily Care: The Foundation of Preservation
Wearing Practices
How you wear your timepiece significantly impacts its longevity:
Avoid Extreme Conditions While many luxury watches are built to withstand considerable stress, avoiding extremes extends their lifespan. Extreme temperatures, whether hot or cold, can affect lubricants and cause expansion or contraction of components. Similarly, sudden temperature changes can cause condensation inside the case.
Protect from Impact Even watches designed for sports and adventure benefit from careful handling. While modern luxury watches are remarkably robust, avoiding unnecessary impacts protects both the case and the delicate movement inside.
Consider Your Activities Different activities require different considerations. Water resistance ratings are important, but so is understanding what activities might stress the case, crown, or crystal. When in doubt, choose a timepiece appropriate for your activity or remove it entirely.
Cleaning and Storage
Regular, gentle cleaning maintains both appearance and function:
Regular Wiping After wearing, gently wipe your timepiece with a soft, lint-free cloth. This removes oils, sweat, and environmental contaminants that can affect both appearance and function over time. Pay particular attention to the case back, which is in constant contact with your skin.
Avoid Harsh Chemicals Never use harsh chemicals, solvents, or cleaning agents on your timepiece. These can damage case finishes, degrade gaskets, and harm dials and hands. If deeper cleaning is needed, consult a professional.
Proper Storage When not wearing your timepiece, store it properly:
- Keep it in its original box or a dedicated watch box
- Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight
- If you have multiple watches, consider a watch winder for automatic models (though this isn’t necessary for all collections)
- Keep the crown screwed down if your watch has a screw-down crown
Service Intervals: Timing is Everything
Understanding Service Needs
Luxury mechanical watches require periodic service to maintain accuracy and function. The frequency depends on several factors:
Manufacturer Recommendations Most manufacturers recommend service intervals of three to five years for mechanical watches. However, these are general guidelines. Watches worn daily may need more frequent service, while those in rotation may go longer between services.
Signs That Service is Needed Several indicators suggest your timepiece needs attention:
- Accuracy issues: Significant deviation from normal accuracy
- Power reserve problems: Automatic watches that don’t maintain power reserve
- Moisture: Any sign of condensation or moisture inside the case
- Crown or pusher issues: Difficulty operating the crown or chronograph pushers
- Unusual sounds: Grinding, clicking, or other unusual sounds from the movement
Choosing a Service Provider
Service quality directly impacts your timepiece’s longevity and value:
Authorized Service Centers For watches still under warranty or those you want to maintain with manufacturer service, authorized service centers are the best choice. They have access to original parts, manufacturer training, and factory specifications.
Independent Specialists Many independent watchmakers offer excellent service, often at lower cost and with faster turnaround. The key is finding someone with experience with your specific brand and model. Look for certifications, references, and examples of their work.
What to Expect A complete service typically includes:
- Complete disassembly of the movement
- Cleaning of all components
- Replacement of worn parts (gaskets, mainspring, etc.)
- Reassembly and lubrication
- Regulation for accuracy
- Case and bracelet refinishing (if requested)
- Water resistance testing
Long-Term Preservation Strategies
Maintaining Original Condition
For collectors, maintaining original condition is often a priority:
Polishing Considerations Case polishing removes metal and can alter the watch’s original lines. Many collectors prefer to preserve original case condition, accepting minor scratches as part of the timepiece’s history. If polishing is necessary, it should be done by someone experienced in preserving original case geometry.
Original Parts Maintaining original parts is crucial for collectibility. When service is needed, request that original parts be preserved when possible. Document any parts replacements, as this information is important for future collectors.
Documentation Maintain detailed records of all service work, including:
- Service dates and providers
- Work performed
- Parts replaced
- Cost and receipts
- Before and after photos (if significant work was done)
This documentation becomes part of the timepiece’s provenance and adds to its value.
Environmental Considerations
The environment in which you store your collection matters:
Humidity Control Excessive humidity can damage movements, cause rust, and degrade dials and hands. Aim for relative humidity between 40% and 60%. In humid climates, consider a dehumidifier or climate-controlled storage.
Temperature Stability Avoid temperature extremes and rapid fluctuations. Stable, moderate temperatures (around 20°C or 68°F) are ideal. Avoid storing watches near heating vents, air conditioners, or windows with direct sunlight.
Magnetic Fields While modern watches are more resistant to magnetism than vintage pieces, strong magnetic fields can still affect accuracy. Keep watches away from speakers, magnetic closures, and other strong magnetic sources.
Special Considerations by Watch Type
Mechanical Watches
Mechanical watches require regular wearing or winding to keep lubricants distributed. If you have multiple watches in rotation, consider:
- Winding each watch monthly, even if not wearing it
- Running each watch periodically to keep the movement active
- Understanding that watches in storage may need more frequent service
Automatic Watches
Automatic watches benefit from regular wearing, which keeps the movement active and lubricated. If you have an automatic watch you don’t wear regularly:
- Consider a watch winder (though this isn’t necessary)
- Or manually wind it periodically
- Understand that automatics in storage may need more frequent service
Chronographs
Chronographs have additional complexity and require special consideration:
- Avoid running the chronograph continuously unless necessary
- Understand that chronograph service is more complex and expensive
- Be aware that vintage chronographs may have specific service requirements
Vintage Pieces
Vintage timepieces require extra care:
- They may be more sensitive to environmental conditions
- Service may require specialized knowledge and parts
- Original condition is often more important than perfect function
- Consult specialists familiar with vintage pieces
Building a Maintenance Routine
Establishing a routine helps ensure your collection receives proper care:
Daily
- Wipe watches after wearing
- Check for any obvious issues (moisture, unusual sounds)
- Store properly when not wearing
Monthly
- Wind watches not in regular rotation
- Check accuracy of watches in rotation
- Inspect for any developing issues
Annually
- Review service needs for each piece
- Plan service schedule for the coming year
- Update documentation and records
Every 3-5 Years
- Schedule service for watches due for maintenance
- Review insurance coverage and valuations
- Consider professional condition assessment
The Investment in Preservation
Proper maintenance is an investment in your collection’s future. Well-maintained timepieces:
- Retain and often increase in value
- Function reliably for decades
- Maintain their aesthetic appeal
- Preserve their historical significance
- Can be passed down as family heirlooms
The cost of regular maintenance is far less than the cost of major repairs resulting from neglect. More importantly, proper care honors the craftsmanship and heritage that make these timepieces special.
Conclusion: A Legacy of Care
Caring for luxury timepieces is both a practical necessity and a way of honoring horological heritage. These mechanical marvels represent generations of expertise, and proper maintenance ensures they continue to function beautifully for future collectors to appreciate.
At The Tempus Order, we believe that understanding maintenance is part of being a responsible collector. Whether you’re caring for your first significant timepiece or managing an established collection, these principles will help you preserve your watches for generations to come.
Remember: a well-maintained timepiece is not just a functional instrument or an investment—it’s a piece of horological history that you’re preserving for the future. The care you invest today ensures that these mechanical works of art continue to tell time, and tell their stories, for decades to come.
Need advice on maintaining a specific timepiece? Contact our experts for personalized guidance on care and service recommendations.